Wheat-country blues in Washington's least-populous county
Walla Walla might be flush with the grape, but just down the road the juice runs out in Pomeroy, Wash. It's the land that agri-tourism forgot – or hasn't found yet. Whiskey, anyone?
Pomeroy is down the highway from Walla Walla in southeastern Washington. This part of the Palouse region is wheat and barley country. The landscape is hillier, drier, the terrain more wide open and empty. This time of year, the fields are brown with golden stubble. It's both a pretty and a lonesome land. There are few farms, there is little traffic, and the car radio sometimes turns to static.
Driving through Pomeroy on Highway 12, the main route between Walla Walla and Lewiston, Idaho, you get the sense of a community in distress. It's almost a shock after passing through towns further west, places like Dayton, the Columbia County seat next door, or Waitsburg and Walla Walla with their wineries, bistros, great architecture, craft breweries, and B&Bs. They carry the whiff of prosperity. By comparison, Pomeroy looks like it's closed for business.
Pomeroy has a lovely old courthouse, but it needs sprucing up. The storefronts along Main Street are drab. Some have architectural charm and potential, but there are too many closed antique shops and empty stores for the town to have curb appeal. There's a food bank and a social service agency on the main drag. Whatever agri-tourism miracles are taking place down the road, Pomeroy isn't sharing in them.
Part of that may be image. There's nothing that says a working farm town has got to be attractive to tourists or cater to foodies. Wheat prices are sky high and some farmers are doing well. Besides, wheat doesn't have the cachet or sex appeal that grapes bring. I recently asked an Eastern Washington farmer what it would take to boost wheat country's tourist appeal. "The only way to get the public excited about wheat," he replied, "is have a naked woman run through the field." Hard-partying Bacchus, the god of wine, is associated with nymphs, not bowls of flour.
For the record, I saw no naked women in Pomeroy. Few clothed people, either. Pomeroy is the seat of Washington's least-populous county, Garfield. (Not, by the way, to be confused with the town of Garfield in Whitman County.) Pomeroy is the county's only incorporated town, with a population of about 1,400. The county's entire population is only 2,350, only 350 more than you need to start a county in the first place. While Washington state grows by leaps and bounds, Garfield ranks 39th out of 39 counties in growth. Deaths outnumber births. The densest community appears to be the cemetery.
Not only is Garfield the least-populous county, it is poorer, older, less educated, and less diverse than state averages. Median age in Washington is 36.6, in Garfield County it's 45.3. The state median income is nearly $57,000, in Garfield it's $35,000. Only 29 percent of adults in the county have a college degree, compared with 36 percent statewide. Minorities make up only 2.3 percent of the population, compared with over 23 percent statewide. There are no black people – zero – in Garfield County. And unlike other eastern agricultural counties, the hispanic population is miniscule.
Garfield, like many rural areas, is deceptive. Looking at the landscape, you'd think everyone is a farmer, but agricultural employment is tiny. Today's modern wheat farms employ few people. They tend to be large, having gobbled up smaller family farms that, today, are economically marginal. "Get big or get out" is the rule. In addition, the government pays farmers not to grow crops. As a result, only 7 percent of Garfield County's workforce is employed in agriculture, forestry (Umatilla National Forest takes up a chunk of the county), and fishing. Garfield's neighboring Palouse counties – Columbia, Whitman, and Asotin – are all in the single-digit range when it comes to ag jobs.
A lot of grain moves through the county on barges working their way through the locks at the lower Snake River dams. The county boomed during the dam-building days, and the traffic is still an agricultural lifeline. Few people here would want to see the dams come down. But the amount of grain moving through has been in decline over the past decade. Still, there doesn't seem to be much sense that Garfield is interested in retooling to a post-dam, pro-salmon link on the yuppie food chain. It's too dry to capitalize much on biofuels, but the hills hold some promise for wind energy.
So what keeps the area going? The largest employer in Garfield is the public sector: the county, the feds, the public schools. Nearly 60 percent of the workforce is employed by government, more than any other county in the Palouse. On average, they're the highest paying local jobs, too. In other words, Garfield County is kept going with public dollars, and a major industry there is taking care of its own needs.
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Comments:
Posted Thu, Nov 1, 3:47 p.m. inappropriate
Theater building: A whiskey distillery would be a welcome addition to the town. Still there are many things that haven't been done to improve the existing assets in the town. One of the main ones is the theater which has been semi-closed down for years. I remember going to movies there as a kid. Renovating the building and bringing in movies and shows would give people a reason to go out at night which would increase demand for dining and accommodations. I wonder if the town has the willingness to actually do what needs to be done to bring in tourists. I think of Leavenworth as an example. Considering that it took 20 years for the 'pocket park' idea to get rolling to do something with the burned out buildings in downtown, I doubt the will exists.
Posted Fri, Nov 2, 9:59 a.m. inappropriate
A restored lower Snake River would benefit Pomeroy: Pomeroy would benefit if the lower Snake River dams were removed and the grain transportation benefits of the dams were replaced by an upgraded rail system (and in some cases new rail in old right of ways, potentially including the one through Pomeroy) throughout the Palouse.
One Pomeroy resident made exactly this point at a presentation last year at Portland's City Club by former Secretary of Interior Bruce Babbitt and former Oregon Gov. John Kitzhaber.
A restored river and a revitalized rail system would allow for a tourism and recreation economy to flourish along the lower Snake River, without cutting into traditional revenue from wheat farming. Then Pomeroy could truly compete with Dayton and Walla Walla, which are closer to mountain recreation, but further from the Snake. With increased wheat prices, maybe thinking outside the box like this won't seem quite as scary to SE Washington residents as it has in the past.
After all, the federal government is spending $6-7 billion over 10 years on a demonstrated failure of a salmon recovery strategy. What if some of that money went toward removing the dams (about $1 billion according the the Corps of Engineers) and upgrading the rail system (about $0.5 billion or less according different studies by the Corps and BST Associates)?
Posted Fri, Dec 7, 2:33 p.m. inappropriate
Contentment with small town culture: There is a lot to be said with being satisfied and comfortable with what you have. Pomeroy is a town that is comfortable in its own shoes, its own traditions, its own culture. There is a time and a place for innovation and overhaul, but there is much to be said for a community that is comfortable in the present. While an attractive main street is a good quality to have, it is superficial, and contentment is a small town value and benefit that cannot be perceived via a brief perusal down main street. I grew up in Pomeroy and as an adult have lived in Spokane and the Seattle area, but like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, Knute, I'd have to tell you, "There is no place like home."
Posted Fri, Dec 7, 8:36 p.m. inappropriate
So Far, Room for More: I thought the biggest problem in Garfield County was the lack of enough jobs for all the young people who've gotten a college education and want to come back home. Until we get that figured out, we still have room for more retired folks from the big cities who are looking for a pleasant town without lots of traffic and with plenty of good neighbors.
Posted Mon, Dec 10, 3:11 p.m. inappropriate
Pomeroy from a local's perspective: You have focused on the flaws that Pomeroy has as a small town and have said that it a "community in distress." But how much time did you really spend in Pomeroy? Did you visit our churches, schools, and local businesses such as Meyer's Hardware? If you haven't, go visit Meyers Hardware's webpage or even the shop itself. It may not appear to be much for eye appeal but our buildings are original and have undergone little modern reconstruction since the 1900s, which in my opinion is something to proud of. Pomeroy is original, charming, and beautiful.
I am a first year transfer student at the University of Idaho and grew up in Pomeroy for the majority of my life. I was born in Prosser, spent my first year of college in Cheney, WA, and now live in Moscow, ID. Out of all these places, and throughout all my travels to various states in the US, no where can you find such a tight knit loving community as Pomeroy, WA. My parents moved our family from Prosser in search of better farming, for that is how we make our living- as dry land wheat farmers. I am proud of my hometown and would feel honored if, after college, I chose to pursue my career as an Agriculture Education teacher in Pomeroy and raise a family there. Sure we don't have a single stoplight and we may not be very well known, but we are proud of the lives that we have built in our community.
You mentioned that our town consists of primarily older people. When in reality, we have very similar high school graduate numbers as neighboring towns. No one complains about LaCrosse, where they average about eleven graduates per year- so why should Pomeroy be targeted? Take a look at the young adults in Pomeroy next time you visit. You will find that the majority of them are engaging in some form of college education, whether it be a community college or at a Univeristy. The teenagers do a pretty good job of staying out of trouble and are very involved in community activities. You will find kids working with their animals; preparing them for livestock shows, visiting people at our local nursing home, competing in sporting events, and helping with town fundraisers like the FFA tree sale, the Heart-to-Heart Foundation, and many others.
We are down home, country music loving, decent Americans just trying to make a living in a community that we don't have to worry about locking the doors or letting out children out to play. We may not have the highest salaries or education rates in the state of Washington but cost of living is much lower in Garfield County and you can make a perfectly decent living on $35,000 a year. Pomeroy is not dying. The young generations and individuals like myself will not let go of our community. We thank you for your concern but believe me when I say we will continue to battle your negative points of view and defend our small town, because we love it- and that is all that matters.
There is no place like home, and home to me is in the wheat fields and in the small town atmosphere of Pomeroy, Washington.
Shannon M. Barr
Posted Tue, Dec 11, 10:23 a.m. inappropriate
Mentality is the problem: The biggest barrier to change and new industy/jobs moving into Pomeroy are those local folks who don't believe a problem exists. They do just fine on their investment/retirement income and to heck with the kids who would consider moving back with their families and contributing to the Pomeroy way of life.. if only they could find a decent means of supporting any lifestyle.
Yes... there are cute shops in Pomeroy. But are we not capable of thinking bigger? What about industry? We have an empty port at one end of town. We have a hospital that is barely able to keep its head above water. We have an aging community that is being forced to the LC Valley just so it can have reliable health care. More jobs means better schools. How many AP classes are available to the high school students--one, two?
This is the best we can do for our kids and future generations?
Posted Tue, Dec 11, 10:41 a.m. inappropriate
Pomeroy native: And, for the record, I was born and raised in Pomeroy, where my dad still lives. It was a great experience. However, today's Pomeroy doesn't hold a candle to my experience growing up there in the 80's when there was an operating bowling alley and movie theater.
Charleen (Woody) Taylor
Posted Tue, Dec 11, 5:50 p.m. inappropriate
RE: Theater building: Please send the extra $500,000.00 you made last year and you can be guaranteed the theatre project will start - not finish but start!
Pomeroy can find it's way to appeal to travelers but it takes money and commitment. The local market is very small. Dayton is significantly larger and has a ski area. A Court House renovation is in the works - the architect who did Dayton's CH grew up in Pomeroy and hopefully will be able to do the Garfield County CH. The Agricultural Museum is a reality and progressing nicely. The pocket park got tied up with a landscape architect in Clarkston that created problems. Also had funding problems with the Forest Service. Some of the problem is with a city council that did not use good judgement a number of times.
Taking the Dams out would be very foolish!!!
I think many of the smart young people left Pomeroy but by the blogs it appears to me many of the foolish ones left also.
Posted Thu, Dec 13, 11:29 a.m. inappropriate
Country Living and Basic Education: In answer to the "mean" article concerning Pomeroy, no one mentioned the recognition of Pomeroy by US News and World Report as being in top 1 percent of high schools in the nation earning a bronze based on high test scores and Advanced Placement tests. Also reported in Walla Walla Union Bulletin, Dec. 3 edition on the front page. Some of us choose country living over the hustle and bustle of the city, traffic congestion, high prices, and fear of criminal activity associated with big cities. As the city dwellers go to the grocery store they may wish for space for a garden, cow, and chickens to be self-sustaining. Country living is not all bad and is our choice. County citizens need to support the services and stores that we have left and those services and stores need to be competitive so as not to drive citizens over the hill to the valley to shop.
Posted Mon, Dec 17, 2:04 p.m. inappropriate
Look to the Future: I grew up in Pomeroy for the first 18 years of my life. I have fond memories of a great school system and a well kept community. When I visit "home" now or simply pass through town, it is apparent that the town is going through a downward spiral. Many of the once cared for homes are now being occupied by people who don't seem to have a vested interest in the community. I realize that small town living is a choice of life; however, many of the people against change won't even be around in 20 years or less. Small towns like Dayton and Waitsburg have been able to feed off the success of Walla Walla. Once run down buildings are being bought up and revitalized to preserve the communities. Budget travel named Waitsburg as one of "10 Coolest Small Towns" in America. Pomeroy should be looking toward the future. People who once grew up there and loved Pomeroy might have a vested interest in moving back home.
http://www.budgettravel.com/bt-
dyn/content/article/2007/08/06/AR2007080600786.html
Posted Thu, Jan 10, 10:39 p.m. inappropriate
I Agree: I also lived in Pomeroy. A lot of people are trying to do great things there. The problem is that there will never be enough resources to do anything with the town, because the old farts won't support any change. They want things to stay just the way that they've always know them. The problem is that change is inevitable , but if we don't embrace it, only negative change will prevail!
People who think that Pomeroy is the world's most wholesome place need to get their heads out of their colons and look outside.
Posted Tue, Jan 15, 8:08 p.m. inappropriate
RE: Pomeroy from a local's perspective: I have to agree with Shannon about Pomeroy. I am a farmer's daughter who is very proud of her heritage. I love coming back and showing it off to my husband and kids and now grandkids. It is a place where you can let your kids out and let them play "until the cows come home" , cheer your neighborhood kids on at a football, basketball, baseball game or help them out with project for the FFA, FHA or 4-H, Cub Scout, Girls Scout and so forth. That is what makes this town a town in my book.
I am thinking that this gentleman, excuse the term, being polite and biting my tongue, needs to come back and take a week and see exactly what he missed. I am certain that he will be writing a different story and telling people that he was wrong about Pomeroy.
Shannon, I do believe that there is no place like home and one needs the small town atmosphere to regenerate the soul and mind, especially after a good rain storm or the freshly cut wheat field. Can not get those smells in Seattle!
Debra Dixon Bradley
Posted Mon, Jan 21, 3:52 p.m. inappropriate
LOVING SMALL TOWN LIVING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!: WOW I GUESS THIS WRITER HAS NEVER BEEN SUBJECTED TO SMALL TOWN HOPITALITY. I DON'T LIVE IN POMEROY BUT I DID WORK THERE FOR 3 YEARS AT THE HOSPITAL AND I WILL TELL YOU THAT I MET SOME OF THE NICEST PEOPLE THERE. THERE IS ALWAYS A FRIENDLY SMILE A WAVE OR A "HOW ARE YOU?" IF I WERE TO WAVE A ANOTHER PERSON UNKNOWN TO ME IN SEATTLE THEY WOULD THINK I WAS STRANGE. I HAPPEN TO LIVE IN A TOWN MUCH SMALLER THAT POMEROY AND WOULD NOT HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY. THERE IS MUCH MORE TO LIVING THAN THE ALL MIGHTY DOLLAR.
Posted Thu, Apr 17, 9:13 a.m. inappropriate
Garfield and Pomeroy update: I've posted a follow-up to this story focussing on the feedback it received. You can find it here.
Posted Tue, Aug 5, 1:13 a.m. inappropriate
Correct URL for the Wild West Rally and comments: The correct URL for the Wild West Rally is www.wildwestrally.org.
The 2008 Wild West Rally is coming up at the end of next month.
The funny thing about this article is that it was posted the same weekend that I was out in Pomeroy for the Olympus Rally, a round in the national rally series and a qualifier for the X Games. I am an official with both the Wild West and Olympus rallies.
I lived in a small town (smaller than Pomeroy) when I was in high school and my mom still lives there. Pomeroy seems to be doing well in comparison to where I grew up. A weakness that I see in Mr. Berger's article is that he didn't seem to put the situation in Pomeroy into perspective.