Why some Seattle neighborhoods change so fast
In the dynamics of our "city of neighborhoods," some fight change, some evolve just right, and others get big fast.
In the 1930s, my father had a paper route in the Rainier Valley that included the Courtland neighborhood, a residential area tucked between Mount Baker and Columbia City. It gave him a view of the “other side of the tracks.” In an oral history I recently came across, he described the area as giving him “glimpses of poverty, drunkenness, the difficulties of old age, people who were irresponsible with their children, people who were mean, and people who were beautiful, and people who faced the Depression with great dignity and courage.”
I was amazed when I read this because it essentially described the Courtland where I delivered papers in the 1960s. Since the time when my father and I delivered papers to people who would be labeled “poor white trash,” the neighborhood has gone through different iterations. New ethnicities and neighborhood amenities have arrived, the old Chubby and Tubby has closed, and Vietnamese signs and a taco bus have sprouted. It’s experienced gang violence, too, and it was the site of one of Seattle’s first crack houses.
The area is finally changing, though. It has a city P-Patch. Crime-watch programs have put a dent in some of the chronic problems. More significantly, the new light-rail line running up Martin Luther King Way joins Rainier Avenue near Courtland, and planners have targeted the adjacent areas for what they call “transit-oriented development,” which likely means taller apartment blocks, more density, perhaps even gentrification. Metaphorically, Courtland has long been on “the other side of the tracks,” but now being adjacent to real train tracks could have a transformative impact on what has been a pocket of poverty for 80 years.
Seattle has frequently been called “a city of neighborhoods,” meaning that it’s diverse and spread out, and that livability here comes from the bottom up, block by block, P-Patch by P-Patch. There are many residential areas in Seattle, of all classes, that have remained largely unchanged over the last half-century or more, though many have been improved by new parks, revamped libraries and community centers, additional sidewalks.
For some neighborhoods, evolution is slow. For others, it is resisted. Some seem to hope City Hall will take no notice of their low densities and free street parking. They don’t want to be ground zero for some planner’s social engineering experiment. Seattle has enclaves that time forgot, and residents there often like it that way.
That said, time has not forgotten every place. In the last 30 years, Chinatown added a Little Saigon and became the International District. The industrial area saw the rise of sports complexes in SoDo and the hipsterizing of Georgetown. Much of the African American population of the Central District has dispersed. Downtown Ballard went from being home to blue-collar fishermen to becoming a condo community for young urbanites. Even Seattle’s iconic Skid Road along First Avenue, which lasted into the late 1980s, lost its pawnshops.
Much high-profile neighborhood change has come downtown with new high-rises and skyscrapers. Some parts are in major transition. When the mayor of Bremerton criticized Pioneer Square earlier this year for being “less than mediocre,” it touched a civic nerve. The neighborhood was saved from blight in the 1960s and became a model for urban renewal through historic preservation, but it’s troubled by conflicting agendas: too many tourists, homeless people, tacky clubs, and empty storefronts. Farther north on First Avenue, even Belltown, which pioneered upscale downtown living, has lost some of its gloss to persistent crime and drug problems.
These urban experiments have new competition, too. The rise of Paul Allen’s South Lake Union is a tribute to the billionaire’s clout and the developer-tilted agenda of the past decade. Pioneer Square lost its waterfront trolley station, while Allentown gained streetcars. Belltown needed a grocery store, but Allentown got the Whole Foods. Shops are closing in Pi-Square, but South Lake Union snagged Amazon.
All three of these neighborhoods, however, are likely to face a shared challenge in the future from another new kid on the block. A potential game changer will be the future post-Viaduct waterfront. Either a surface option or the deep-bored-tunnel option Olympia and the City settled on (though haven’t paid for) is an opportunity to reshape downtown for the next century. It’s uncertain what will emerge, but presumably it will have a significant impact on adjacent areas. The “city of neighborhoods” will have a new one that in all likelihood will become its face to the west, and the world.
This essay first appeared in the August issue of Seattle Magazine.Like what you just read? Support high quality local journalism. Become a member of Crosscut today!











Twitter
Facebook
RSS Feeds
Comments:
Posted Tue, Sep 8, 7:20 a.m. Inappropriate
Oh Knute! This article doesn't do this subject justice. Too many variables, historic neighborhood configurations, Racial descrimination, loss of affordable housing and generally absent or bad planning.
Too many things to react to and lack of time keeps me from responding here. Perhaps you could break this topic down into sub-topics and do it justice.
I'm willing to help, if you are interested in the intelligent discussion of this important subject.
Art
Posted Tue, Sep 8, 2:36 p.m. Inappropriate
I like his " conflicting agendas" though. That's a good place to start.
Posted Tue, Sep 8, 7:27 p.m. Inappropriate
Knute, this is a nice short piece! You clearly have a grasp of the human level of neighborhood change. However, I'm perplexed that you didn't mention what to me seems like the change most visible by comparing today to historic photographs: space for cars. We wanted, and we got, two Interstate cutting through the city, wider state highways and arterial roads, more street parking, and surface lots and parking garages replacing housing and businesses (especially dramatic in my neighborhood, the University District). The internal combustion engine is an amazing invention and I'm grateful for it every day, but we need to be realistic about how much space and money we dedicate to cars. I'd bet it even dwarfs Paul Allen's millions.
A related note: Hendrik Smith, producer of Frontline's _Poisoned Waters_, will give a free public lecture at UW on November 3:
http://www.grad.washington.edu/lectures/smith.html
(By the way, are there any "low density" areas in Seattle? Nearly all the parts I know of are moderate density.)
Posted Tue, Sep 8, 11:21 p.m. Inappropriate
By world standards, pretty much everything in Seattle is low density, and there are some areas of medium density. Paris, for example, is several times the density of Seattle if you're comapring the central municipalities, or similar 83.7 square mile areas if you prefer. Vancouver is dramatically denser regardless of what sort of area you're comparing.
And yes, we spend an astonishing amount of money and space on our car-focused culture.
Posted Wed, Sep 9, 12:14 p.m. Inappropriate
Well, I guess it depends on your definition of "low". The recent National Academies CO2 report mentioned that Atlanta metro area's median lot size is 0.58 acres! For "moderate" density, I'm thinking neighborhoods in the area of 12-30 units per acre, which I think covers basically all of Seattle's "streetcar suburbs" (the single family areas are lower than that, but the commercial streets have higher density apartments).
Of course even Seattle's Urban Centers are nothing like Paris or Vancouver. (yet??)
Posted Mon, Sep 14, 3:42 p.m. Inappropriate
Good piece but it doesn't address the biggest determinant of change to a neighborhood - its affluence, which is a function of politics, its inhabitants and the value of the property.
Compare the four neighborhoods you mention, Pioneer Square, Belltown, SLU and Courtland, to say Madison Park or Laurelhurst. There has been change but not so much that a resident there 20 years ago wouldn't recognize it. These are established neighborhoods with wealthy residents who would not tolerate much change. Property values are high and zoning is the same or perhaps is more restrictive.
Its no surprise then when infill growth is dictated as the GMA of 1990 did that City Hall would direct change to its least affluent neighborhoods. Better yet invent neighborhoods where no one (or very few people) lived. No neighbors to complain, low property values and a need to find new use for land once zoned for industry and warehouses long removed to Kent and Redmond. The most changed neighborhoods you mention are examples of this.
As for densities, Seattle remains typical of young auto-oriented cities with predominantly single-family lots generous enough for front, back and side yards. The challenge is to correctly predict if personal transportation in some fashion will be available to most people and allow us to continue in our current lifestyle or if constraints on economics, the environment and society force us back to public transportation and higher densities. That will determine whether our future looks similar to what we have now or more like the old cities of Paris and New York.
Login or register to add your voice to the conversation.