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Oh, to be in North Korea's pavilion!

Our man in Shanghai: At Expo 2010, there are no lines to see the North Koreans' pavilion. You can also spend time in Iran, Afghanistan, Burma, and the land of Hugo Chavez. Have fun tracking international outliers.
Inside the North Korean Pavilion: The best-fed North Koreans appear to be dancing cherubs.

Inside the North Korean Pavilion: The best-fed North Koreans appear to be dancing cherubs. Dave Fuller

North Korea and Iran's pavilions sit next to each other, leading to jokes about the Axis of Evil Square.

North Korea and Iran's pavilions sit next to each other, leading to jokes about the Axis of Evil Square. Urso Chappell, ExpoMuseum.com

Forbidden fruit is always tasty, and world's fairs often offer a chance to sample it. The Shanghai Expo offered a giant fruit bowl to pick from. One remote corner of the Expo site was dubbed Axis of Evil Square for bunching the North Korean and Iranian pavilions near one another. But throughout the exposition there were opportunities to hear what outlier countries had to say for themselves, unfiltered.

Most intriguing was the North Korean Pavilion, that nation's first. On the eve of Expo, it looked like war might break out over North Korea's sinking of a South Korean naval vessel, and things are still shaky on the peninsula. But inside the pavilion, all is weirdly calm, or just plain weird. In some respects, this is the most surreal exhibit at an expo since Salvador Dali's "Dream of Venus" pavilion at the 1939 New York World's Fair.

Big letters greet visitors to mini-North Korea: "Paradise of People." The pavilion features mini-monuments, such a reproduction of the Washington-Monument-style Juche Tower in the country's capital, Pyongyang. North Korean iconography also includes a fascination with childlike imagery. There's a fountain of rainbow colors featuring plump cherubs, presumably celebrating life in the people's paradise. The imaginary putti are apparently among the few who aren't starving in North Korea.

There's also a wall mural with flying female fairy beings. (One blogger described them as looking like "the death angels that emerge from the Ark of the Covenant in Raiders of the Lost Ark.) Is North Korean living in fairy land? Is that how you spin a country that is purported to be a concentration camp defended by nuclear weapons?

There's a fake river, also a cave that shows off reproductions of ancient rock carvings (at least, presumably that's what it's there for, not a demonstration of North Korean housing). The main attraction is the pavilion's gift shop, which has flags, postage stamps, and endless volumes featuring the essays of Dear Leader Kim Jong Il or his father Kim Il Sung, including a volume on filmmaking theory. This from a man who kidnapped a South Korean film director and forced him to make propaganda films for him, by the book, I presume.

Most pavilions at Expo have long lines to get in; this one does not. It's easier to get into and out of than the real North Korea, which is a plus.

Nearby is the Iranian Pavilion, which is much more sophisticated and includes live traditional music performances. There was also a line to get in. The gist seems to be showcasing technology, though a satellite on display looked like it was homemade, and maybe it was. Let's hope that's not an indictor of their nuclear technology. Or maybe, that it is.

There was also a picture of an illuminated mosque juxtaposed with a picture of an oil refinery that suggested a visual or symbolic linkage between oil tanks and minarets.

One surreal element is the words ascribed to Holocaust-denier "Respected President Dr. Ahmadinejad" who sounds a note of brotherly cooperation when addressing the "Better Cities, Better Life" theme of the expo. It sounds so Oprah-worthy: He says we need to live "not just through being with each other," but by "being there for each other." Unless you're Israel, of course.

The Afghanistan Pavilion is filled with wonderful jewelry of silver and carnelian. The emphasis was on traditional crafts, but the slogan of the pavilion was interesting: "Land of Opportunities and Resources." In line with a recent U.S. military report saying that the country was full of exploitable mineral deposits ($1 trillion-worth), there was a display of various minerals and ores.

You get the idea that Afghanistan is open for business, and that the strategy for defeating the Taliban is to sell the country off to resource extractors. Unlike Iraq, Afghanistan doesn't have much oil, but it does have copper, cobalt, iron, and gold. If the country has stuff that can be carried off (besides the opium crop), it might have a shot at being a (pick one) 1. modern free market or 2. exploitable colonial economy. It might also attract investment and generate profits that could help justify the billions being spent on our war there, because we'd be able to see some kind of return, down the road. Afghanistan is kind of like a Web startup, and we might finally have a revenue model that works!


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Comments:

Posted Fri, Jul 9, 8:37 a.m. Inappropriate

I wish you had taken more pictures of the North Korea exhibition! I have an addiction for all things DPRK, and the dancing cherub statue wasn't WTF enough.

Jon Sayer

Posted Fri, Jul 9, 9:07 a.m. Inappropriate

Jon: See some more

here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/expomuseum/tags/expo2010northkorea/

and here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/88017382@N00/4730968282/in/photostream/

Posted Fri, Jul 9, 9:32 a.m. Inappropriate

Thanks, Knute! Love the better pic of the fountain in the second link. That has to be one of the most absurd things I've seen all week.

Thing is, they *are* living in a fairy land. Their propaganda and isolation has warped the average N Korean's view of the outside world and their own country in ways Americans just plain can't understand. There is nothing negative in their portrayal of their own country, nothing but cute kitsch.

Here's a few videos for those who are curious:

Vice Guide to North Korea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6ixGYzbLz0

Recent BBC report from inside the country: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IH_uOIUYXKk&feature;=related

Jon Sayer

Posted Fri, Jul 9, 10:16 a.m. Inappropriate

I wonder how much the North Korean government spent on the pavilion. Then again, it's not like they would have spent the money on, say, bettering the lives of their citizens (perhaps by feeding them), had they sat this one out.

~ Benjamin Donguk Lukoff, whose Korean family left the north when the war began

Posted Fri, Jul 9, 10:42 a.m. Inappropriate

This reminds me a lot of the USSR pavilion at Expo 74 in Spokane. Inside the door was a dramatically lit faux stainless steel bust of Lenin over 10 feet tall. Flanking that was an equally monumental photo of Leonid Brezhnev waving benevolently at the guests. There were several large dioramas built into the wall, depicting a city, a ski resort, etc. When the KGB docent pressed a button, the lighting on the display would dim like sunset and the lights in the little buildings would come on, to the accompaniment of the sounds of timing motors, clacking relays and rotating cams. "Is good workmanlike construction!"

In the gift shop, I surprised the cashier by asking to buy one of the little Soviet flags on their little plastic flagpoles sitting on a shelf behind the counter. Apparently someone in authority there hoped that this would be a harbinger of detente with the American youth, because soon a fellow who I remember looking a lot like actor Vladek Sheybal came out and set a row of little Soviet and US flags on top of the cash register.

I wish I could attend this fair, but time and fiscal constraints are conspiring against that. So I'm eagerly consuming Knute's reports instead. Thanks!

dbreneman

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