The 'Mad Men' landmark that might have been

Gourmet food, cool architecture, cocktails, and modern art: Seattle Center could have had an exceptional cosmopolitan amenity, but the city said no.

Canlis restaurant, shown in 1958

Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI)

Canlis restaurant, shown in 1958

Even today, Seattle Center hopes to remake its dining choices, as shown in this rendering.

Seattle Center

Even today, Seattle Center hopes to remake its dining choices, as shown in this rendering.

The private owners of a successful restaurant want to cut a deal for a piece of Seattle Center in order to expand their business and create a showcase for a renowned Northwest artist. But some people object, citing the lack of public process, a hurry-up schedule and decrying the private use of public property at the Center.

Sound familiar?

Yes, but this isn't the Space Needle and Dale Chihuly in 2010. It happened 50 years ago on the eve of the Seattle world's fair. Yet the dispute is eerily familiar as the shape and future of the Center and its public-private nature are still hotly debated.

The year was 1961 and the city was getting ready to host the first American world's fair since World War II. The fair was going to be the launch pad for a new permanent civic center in Seattle, and long before the fair began, planners, civic and business leaders were mapping out the complex's post-fair use.

Old facilities were to be refurbished or transformed (Memorial Stadium, the Armory, Civic Auditorium), and others were to get a running start during the fair. The U.S. Pavilion would be turned into the Pacific Science Center, for example, and the Space Needle was planned as a permanent tourist attraction.

In November of '61, as the race to get the fair up and running hit high gear (it was set to open in April of '62), a private group stepped forward with an ambitious idea. Restaurateur Peter Canlis and businessman John Hauberg unveiled a $500,000 proposal to build a new Canlis restaurant next to the new Opera House at Seattle Center. According to The Seattle Times, the plan was to remodel or replace the old Veteran's Annex to the Civic Auditorium with a fine-dining establishment and Mark Tobey art museum.

Tobey, at that time, was one of Seattle's most famous artists, and Canlis the owner of the city's finest restaurant. Hauberg and his wife, Anne, were major arts patrons. The combination seemed perfect.

The fair would be a world showcase for Northwest art, plus a spur to the local food scene even then gaining in reputation (some bubbling critics said the city was already starting to give San Francisco a run for its money, dining-wise). The project would put the Northwest palate and palette at Ground Zero for the "new" Seattle.

The proposal was welcomed by fair organizers, though it came relatively late. Century 21 Exposition manager Ewen Dingwall said it would be a "wonderful addition." The model for the new Center was partly inspired by Copenhagen's Tivoli Gardens (Seattle urbanists' fascination with that Danish city is longstanding).

Canlis said his restaurant would be the first step toward bringing about the Tivoli vision of the Center. He saw the restaurant facing the International Fountain and hosting 250-300 diners at at time. It would be, he told the Times, "a jewel in the beautiful fountain plaza area." 

There were problems, however, according to newspaper accounts. The Canlis backers wanted the city to sell them the property, or give them a 50-year or longer lease. The private Space Needle backers had already gotten their property from the city, and that deal was controversial.

The Canlis backers also wanted car access and parking on the site (a depressed roadway onto the fair grounds was one possibility). Some veterans' groups, which used the Annex as a meeting place, questioned whether privatizing public property for a "luxury" restaurant would be legal. Others worried that the building schedule would disrupt ongoing fair construction. A city councilman questioned whether liquor should be sold so close to a high school stadium (Memorial). In early December, the Civic Center Advisory Committee told the City Council it opposed selling Center property to the restaurant.

Sounds very Seattle, doesn't it? Objections about cars hurting walkability, questions about private gain over public benefit, worries about alcohol sales, angry groups petitioning the City Council against caving to the local elite. In the march up to the fair, Seattle public process was sometimes steamrollered by backroom deals orchestrated by civic and business leaders.

Some feared that this would continue. When business bigwigs founded the group, Post-Fair Unlimited, to advise and perhaps run the fair post-Expo, it was blithely reported in The Seattle Times (whose publisher, W.K. Blethen, was part of the group) that they would be conducting their business "off the record" for the time being.

Modern Seattle as we know it, including the Center, would likely not exist if today's process had ruled the day. But on the eve of the fair, and in the early planning stages for what was to come, there were signs of backlash amid the boosterism.

By mid-December, the Canlis-Hauberg plan was dead. In a telegram to City Council President David Levine, Hauberg said he was withdrawing the proposal until the city had decided how to "govern" the Center after Century 21.

The Canlis-that-could-have-been was soon forgotten in the fair hoopla. The Haubergs, who commissioned a Tobey mural for the new Opera House, continued to dream of a museum dedicated to the artist's work. In fact, they planned to build the museum on their Pilchuck Tree Farm in Snohomish County — that is until a young artist named Dale Chihuly came along and convinced them to back his plans for a glassmaking school.

But the Canlis-Hauberg plan is one of those intriguing, forgotten ideas that in retrospect seem like a slam dunk. Today, the Center would still love to have more fine dining on the campus, and Tivoli is still regarded as a role model.

Canlis' handpicked designer for this project was Roland Terry, the legendary Northwest architect who designed the existing Canlis. Terry had discussed the restaurant/museum plans with Century 21 master planner and Coliseum designer, Paul Thiry, and Paul Hayden Kirk, who designed some key fair structures (Fine Arts Pavilion, the Playhouse). Along with being at the center of a renewed city, the project might have represented part of an amazing collaboration of local architectural talent.

Art tastes and the restaurant business are fickle, and the collaboration might not have lasted. Still, imagine Canlis cuisine (still getting recognition), mystic modern art, enduring Northwest architecture, and a fabulous urban amenity in the heart of Seattle with a splash of "Mad Men" style. Fifty years ago, Seattle lost a chance to create another attraction that might have become an anchor of a place still searching for its Tivoli-ness.


About the Author

Knute Berger is Mossback, Crosscut's chief Northwest native. He also writes the monthly Grey Matters column for Seattle magazine and is a weekly Friday guest on Weekday on KUOW-FM (94.9). His newest book is Pugetopolis: A Mossback Takes On Growth Addicts, Weather Wimps, and the Myth of Seattle Nice, published by Sasquatch Books. In 2011, he was named Writer-in-Residence at the Space Needle and is author of Space Needle, The Spirit of Seattle (2012), the official 50th anniversary history of the tower. You can e-mail him at mossback@crosscut.com.

Like what you just read? Support high quality local journalism. Become a member of Crosscut today!

Comments:

Posted Thu, Mar 10, 8:38 a.m. Inappropriate

The driveway would have been a big negative, a disruption in the middle of what's today a successful if imperfect public space thanks in sizeable part to the lack of streets. A good every-night use would contribute to the mix. Hopefully busy at lunches and odd hours too.

Restaurants succeed or don't succeed with far too much fluctuation. It's a good bet that this location would be a dowdy has-been for much of the last 49 years, or risen and fallen with the times. Canlis blood might have been helpful given their success, or it might have diluted their focus and customer base and diminished both. There would be no view.

mhays

Posted Thu, Mar 10, 8:43 a.m. Inappropriate

It's ironic that about 10 years earlier, another entrepreneur was inspired by Tivoli to create a family friendly destination that featured dining, entertainment and amusements. It was called Disneyland. In the 1980s, the Disney parks organization offered to help Seattle improve the Center. The offer, of course, was treated as an insult. Seattle now has what musician/comedian Martin Mull once referred to (while performing in the Opera House) as an "abandoned fair grounds." Long live The Seattle Way!

dbreneman

Posted Thu, Mar 10, 9:07 a.m. Inappropriate

I think the "plan that wasn't" would have kept the post-fair grounds much more relevant over the years. Canlis is a "landmark", the center not so.

buddycats

Posted Thu, Mar 10, 6:26 p.m. Inappropriate

mhays: The parking and auto access (via sunken roadway) issue would have been a challenge. I wish I knew Thiry's thoughts on that. It's interesting to read the accounts of plans for parking at the site (tearing down Memorial Stadium post-fair for parking was explored). From the view standpoint, the restaurant would be located such that it would have had a view of the International Fountain (some people hated that name, by the way, thought it lame and generic). I think the idea is that it would have been great people-watching as Seattleites strolled the grounds, the night time fountain lights would have been lovely, and it was convenient to arts venues. People for years complained about not being able to get a good meal or a decent cocktail nearby if they went to play, opera or symphony.

Posted Thu, Mar 10, 9:58 p.m. Inappropriate

Tivoli Gardens is in a dense downtown area and has a big train station next door. It's easy for people across the Copenhagen area to get to, and doesn't have the burden of a parking moat. It also isn't dominated by major events that would scare off non-event crowds, which has historically been a problem at the Center, particularly among drivers, who assumed they'd find no parking on Sonics nights.

The Seattle Center will benefit from added density within walking distance, and from the rail if it ever happens. (Buses don't seem to draw the leisure crowd that trains can.) Putting a few blocks of Aurora underground north of Denny and updating the Mercer underpass will both improve walkable access.

A view of the fountain and grounds would be ok, but it I doubt it would be a huge draw on the order of the Space Needle, where the view allowed a viable restaurant even when the food wasn't good.

mhays

Posted Thu, Mar 17, 2:10 a.m. Inappropriate

Balenciaga Handbags Of Metal Accessories
Balenciaga Handbags only a bit very some said, "that is before me see some website and found the silver clasp motorcycle bags introduction will have a word is true of incognizant, that's palladium, metal, chemical palladium is Pd, is an extract from platinum genera of rare element,Balenciaga 084857-6 Bags Black although regarding this point I have no further research and also bet silver clasp can not be entirely the metal is made,
But contain this element is sure, such word, many JMS showing off himself silver clasp Discount Balenciaga Handbags can say, can put others said dizzy, some more like a briefcase or bag, shape also is flat rectangle, square, trapezoidal infrequently-used, for example, City, schools, Woven, Parttime weekender etc.
http://www.bestbalenciagahandbags.com/

Tonglimit

Login or register to add your voice to the conversation.

Join Crosscut now!
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Follow Us »