Seattle Center: How the city bulldozed history to create change
The creation of Seattle Center required the demolition of a historic, living neighborhood, but it also carried the seeds for a future urban ethic of preservation and reuse.
Seattle Municipal Archives/Planning Commission
Seattle Municipal Archives/Engineering Department
Seattle Municipal Archives/Engineering Department
Seattle Municipal Archives/Engineering Department
Fifty years ago, as organizers raced to build the Century 21 Exposition, there was more at stake than simply putting on a good party. The end result was going to be a permanent Civic Center. That, after all, is what city voters had approved bonds for in 1956. The fair was the means by which a long anticipated center would come to life. By leveraging the Civic Center funds with matching monies from the state and additional federal and private investment, Seattle could have a PR boost and leave an unmatched urban legacy.
While Century 21 was future focused, the "first Space Age world's fair," it also took the past seriously. The Civic Center idea had been kicking around in urban planning since the end of the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition (AYP) in 1909, and one was part of the (defeated) Bogue plan of 1912. Civic centers were in vogue, the kind of urban amenity a modern city needed. Seattle often looked to San Francisco as a big-sister model of sophistication, and the city had hosted three expositions, one, in 1915, which had helped leverage the building of a major civic center that still thrives.
The Seattle Times had reporters like Stanton Patty scour the experience of other fair host cities for lessons that could be put to good use in Seattle: Chicago, New York, Brussels, and San Francisco were all researched, and their expo histories brought to light for local analysis. The city also drew on its own 1909 experience. Century 21 had once been conceived as a 50th anniversary celebration of our first fair. The 1909 fair itself had been designed to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Klondike Gold Rush, an event that was barely history when celebrated. In fact, as historian Matthew Klingle has written, AYP was "a world's fair that celebrated neither history nor past heroes but present location and aspirations."
But now that boosterism served as a historical antecedent. Links to AYP were frequently discussed. Al Rochester, the city councilman credited with coming up with the Seattle fair idea, had attended AYP and his boyish enthusiasm was unabated. Business leader and real estate man Henry Broderick had been on the board of AYP, and was appointed to the Century 21 board, the only man to serve in that capacity at both fairs. Fairs, by their nature, are about progress, development, trade and technology. These men served as living links with the past: A past that was about building the future.
There was no dissonance felt in the fact that to build the long-cherished idea of a Civic Center, and to create a fair that was itself an important link in the historical chain of expositions, the old had to give way to the new. An old neighborhood had to be demolished, and some landmark buildings razed.
The scope of the destruction was extensive, some 200 homes flattened, many of them turn-of-the-century houses that we would rehab and treasure today (including at least one apartment house built for AYP). The grand, 57-year-old Warren Avenue School came down too, and with it there was collateral damage outside the neighborhood: the old, beloved 70-year-old Lowell School on Capitol Hill was torn down for a new facility that would house the district's "spastic children's program" displaced by the flattening of Warren Avenue.
Symbolically, the first act of demolition was taken when Broderick, the lone AYP and Century 21 trustee, gleefully swung a crane's clamshell into the side of a home, making him "the envy of every small boy in Seattle." Broderick provided the historic link that connected past, present and future.
According to the newspaper, as the wrecking ball demolished a modest house at 619 Nob Hill Ave., the crowd cheered. All except a man who had lived there from 1897 to 1948.
The newspapers reported the historic carnage with enthusiasm: It meant progress toward the much anticipated fair (and both the P-I and Times were in booster mode). There was comparatively little outcry from the public, no landmarks process or historic districts to protect significant structures. By and large, the Warren Avenue neighborhood was considered blight (so, too, the Pike Place Market and Pioneer Square). Slum clearance was thought to be good urban policy. Some citizens simply asked that some of the major demolitions be conducted with respect. Regarding the Lowell School, one Times letter writer said "Seventy is a long time in the history of a young town like Seattle and old Lowell is as venerable a relic as we have — too valuable to be knocked down without a suitable gesture of farewell."
While the bulldozers were growling, there was an alternative urban sensibility emerging. Victor Steinbrueck, who did design work for the fair, issued his seminal book Seattle Cityscape in 1962 in which he literally sketched out the city's soul as reflected in its urban fabric, where old combined with new in unique ways. The book celebrated old, settled Seattle with a modern aesthetic that informed both preservationists and urbanists. The book was frequently handed out as a gift during the fair, as if to say our future was rooted in a very real, often gritty, city.
The destruction of a large swath of South Queen Anne for the Civic Center stirred up memories that remind us that the kind of urbanism that once treated settled neighborhoods as erasable slates often killed something precious: the kind of urban neighborhoods we aspire to have today. Listen to this quote from a neighborhood resident from a story by Lucile MacDonald writing about the impending demolition of the Warren Avenue School:
"I wouldn't have traded living in the Warren Avenue neighborhood for anything," said Mrs. [William] Friedli. "It had so many advantages. Industry was close by and our classes could walk down to visit the waterfront and go through the Washington Co-operative plant and bakeries. There were cable cars on the Queen Anne counterbalance and the Civic stadium was on the auditorium site. Kids used to climb fences to peek at games. There was always something going on."
Good schools, safe for kids, near work, walkable, with rail, local food (bakeries) and entertainment (baseball). Sounds like the Brooklyn idyll we're still trying to recreate in SoDo, South Lake Union, Belltown.
One reason the current Seattle Center site was chosen was that it did have a useful past. The fair might have been located at Fort Lawton (now Discovery Park) or Sand Point Naval Air Station (now Magnuson Park), two of the alternate locations considered. But as much as Century 21 was about "new," it was also about recycling and adaptive re-use.
The old Armory was turned into the fair's Food Circus, now Center House; Memorial Stadium, which Civic Center planners had hoped to tear down and replace, lives on, and was a major venue for fair entertainment, not to mention subsequent decades serving events like Bumbershoot. The Civic Auditorium was retained and refurbished as an Opera House as a cost-saving measure. While the fair bulldozed much of the existing residential neighborhood, it incorporated some of its most important community structures.
Some believed the result was decidedly mixed. Donlyn Lyndon, head of the architecture school at the University of Oregon, critiqued the resulting Seattle Center in 1965. He called Memorial Stadium a structure that cut "malignantly" into the Center's space, and condemned the interior view blockage of the concrete box that is Center House. These are still points of contention, as is the Center's lack of connection with the surrounding neighborhood.
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Comments:
Posted Thu, May 19, 7:23 a.m. Inappropriate
Seattle Center could not happen today. The Seattle Commons fiasco and final triumphant victory from 1991-1996 proved that. Individual property rights and values prevailed over the misuse of eminent domain and condemnation. Costs have skyrocketed and Seattle Center may be stuck with relics such as Memorial Stadium and the Center House. Renovations to the entire campus (Key Arena, the Opera House, EMP, etc.) have cost hundreds of millions of dollars and the place still cries out for more. Finally, did not some of the original Lowell School at the corner of Mercer East and 11th Ave East survive as the school got a new northern wing for the special education kids that were transferred from Warren School?
Posted Thu, May 19, 8:26 a.m. Inappropriate
animalal: The original school was demolished, but a 1919 addition was kept and added on to.
http://www.historylink.org/index.cfm?DisplayPage=output.cfm&file;_id=3195
Posted Thu, May 19, 10:07 a.m. Inappropriate
This is fascinating history. It recalls that the time of the World's Fair was one of panic about how cities were losing ground to suburbs and so needed such "cures" as slum clearance, cultural centers, urban freeways, and safe experiences in parks and Disneyland imitations. Seattle fully bought into this recipe for "suburbanizing" the city, until it later realized, helped along by such thinkers as Victor Steinbrueck, that it made more sense to play up urban advantages like the Public Market and Pioneer Square, rather than razing them for parking garages and highly controlled environments.
Accordingly, Seattle's World's Fair was a scheme for urban revitalization on other people's dimes. The regulations were meant to prevent this. Other fairs had large acreage, around 500 acres, which meant they had to be in the suburbs. And the buildings for the fair had to be demolished a year after the fair closed, to prevent just the kind of paying for new public amenities such as opera houses out of fair and federal revenues. Slick Seattle leaders effectively snookered the authorities and ended up with new theaters, an arena, and a Science Center.
Posted Thu, May 19, 4:52 p.m. Inappropriate
I like Seattle Center and have lots of good memories of time spent there, but in retrospect it seems like a mistake. Bulldozing a whole neighborhood of hundreds of homes for a public space that's not particularly well-designed and stands apart from its surroundings is a tragedy. Unfortunately we have an extensive legacy of such tragedies in this city, including the construction of Highway 99 and the Central Freeway (I-5) through the heart of the city.
Posted Thu, May 19, 5:17 p.m. Inappropriate
How many others noticed the billboard for KOL in the bus stop picture?
Posted Fri, May 20, 1:54 a.m. Inappropriate
Sad.
Posted Fri, May 20, 8:45 a.m. Inappropriate
"...Slick Seattle leaders effectively snookered the authorities."
That's interesting history.
Brewster should write more about what happened.
Posted Fri, May 20, 3:18 p.m. Inappropriate
"Cascadian" has an excellent point that needs more attention by the media (tell us what happened in EVERY case) and the City government. Seattle seems to be in the business of killing neighborhoods--not only the ones that previously occupied the Seattle Center site, Hiwy-99, and I-5, but many others as well. Consider: Pioneer Square (several times--thank you King Dome!), the University District, Belltown, lower Queen Anne (linked to the Seattle Center, of course), and now Montlake . . . all dead, dying, or threatened. To those that have survived or suffered near-misses (Capitol Hill, Queen Anne, Wallingford, Fremont, Madrona, Eastlake, West Seattle), watch your back! In the case of some of the tragedies, like Pioneer Square, it's sadly almost too late. Rather than scrape what's left off the sidewalks and streets, perhaps a South Lake Union approach is in order. In other words, preserve a few key historical sites and raze the rest to make room for some thoughtful development.
Posted Fri, May 20, 8:17 p.m. Inappropriate
I have been told by old-timers that the neighborhood that was bulldozed for the Fair was Seattle's red-light district, which was one of the reasons it was chosen for bulldozing (and also one of the reasons some were mad it was chosen). Perhaps someone could dig into that angle.
Posted Sun, May 22, 2:57 p.m. Inappropriate
"He called Memorial Stadium a structure that cut "malignantly" into the Center's space, and condemned the interior view blockage of the concrete box that is Center House."
Ah, but Memorial Stadium was there first. Many people don't know that.
I write for the Save Seattle Schools blog and a special interest of mine is facilities.
The land that both Seattle Center and Memorial Stadium sit on were bequeathed to the City by James Osborn around 1889 under the stipulation that the land would be for "the use of the public forever." After WWII, the City of Seattle deeded Civic Field to the Seattle School District with the stipulation that the site would be used for athletic activities forever. It was built and dedicated as a War Memorial on Thanksgiving Day 1947 in memory of 762 former SPS students who gave their lives in WWII.
There was a threat of losing the stadium to the World's Fair but that didn't happen. One of first professional football games was played at the stadium in 1954 and it was one of the first stadiums to use Astroturf.
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