The finer points of pho, with poet and 'pho-natic' Jack Prelutsky

Eating on the Edge: The garnishes, the sauces, the food tales told over a shared meal in a city that is "pho-rocious" for its size.


Jack Prelutsky, poet and 'pho-natic'

Library of Congress

Jack Prelutsky, poet and 'pho-natic'

Poet Jack Prelutsky's art is often inspired by his love of food.

Falmouth Public Library

Poet Jack Prelutsky's art is often inspired by his love of food.

The poet Jack Prelutsky happens to live in Seattle, his home for the past 35 years and probably for the rest of his life because, unlike many of his peers — he is 70 years old — he doesn’t care much for the sun and heat.

He and his wife Carolynn spend most days at their house on Bainbridge Island and the rest in their studio apartment on Queen Anne, a small loft that serves as their forward base when he has business in the city — his web guru lives in the Greenwood neighborhood — or when they want to enjoy the amenities of the city.

Prelutsky, who became the nation’s first “Children’s Poet Laureate,” five years ago, loves baseball (he has season tickets to the Mariners), and the opera (he attends every performance of the Seattle Opera and sings in a community choir). He also has watched every episode of every “Star Trek” television show. Among his many talents — he plays guitar too — is one for the video game Pac-Man. Maybe it has something to do with his great vision, which until recently was better than 20-20.

Prelutsky also loves to eat, in a way only a few people I’ve met do. I don’t mean that he knows a lot about good cooking, or that he appreciates a fine restaurant, although both are true. A passionate eater equally loves a Hebrew National hot dog grilled on a Teflon skillet at 3 a.m.

Prelutsky’s tastes are fairly wide, so much of the food he likes is the kind only big cities tend to have. He particularly likes Vietnamese food. At one time, he claimed he had eaten at every Vietnamese restaurant in Seattle, and it was not uncommon for him to eat pho for lunch every day.

He is probably not the only artist for whom fixation is part of the creative process.

His poetry collections are often built on a single theme, taken from the ordinary rhythms of life but observed to maniacally delightful detail. Of course, food comes into play too. One of his most famous compilations, Scranimals, is about "broccolions," "bananacondas," and such.

Given that he loves pho, he is lucky he lives in Seattle — or maybe it is because he lives in Seattle. According to the all-things-pho website Pho Fever, Seattle and San Francisco have more pho restaurants (74 and 78, respectively) than any other city except Houston (96), which because of the Gulf coast shrimp industry is the locus of Vietnamese immigration in America.

Although if you take San Francisco and San Jose as a whole, the Bay Area has 136 pho joints according to Pho Fever. And if you count Los Angeles and Orange County as one entity, Southern California has 112 (144 if you add in San Diego). The point is that Seattle, for a city of its size, is pho-rocious.

Pho inspires unique devotion, perhaps because of its simplicity, balance, regularity, and the ritual it inspires. Where pho is common, it is reliably good, served the same way from store to store, hot and nourishing, comforting in all kinds of weather, all hours of the day.

Pho Fever is not the only Internet entity dedicated to the consumption and worship of pho. A local Facebook group, The Seattle Pho-Natics (the word pho seems to lend itself particularly well to puns), claims 97 members as counted by the number of people who “like” the group.

The group recently called out a pho restaurant named Pho So 1, at 12th Avenue South and South Jackson Street, the traditional axes of the Vietnamese-American business community in Seattle. Pho So 1 recently changed owners, expanded its menu, and received an interior makeover of new chairs, an aquarium, and artwork with an Italian theme, of all things.

Pho So 1 also happens to be Prelutsky’s go-to pho joint from years ago. It was his favorite back when it was far less pretty. He stuck with it through its period of slight decline, before it changed owners, and still considers the new incarnation his favorite (or at least one of his favorites).

Of all the places he has tried, Pho So 1 held the most gravity for him.

“They have the best broth and they know how to cook tendon,” he said this week over lunch at Pho So 1. “They knew me here. I didn’t have to order. They just knew what I wanted.”

He learned all the Vietnamese words for the ingredients in pho, like tai (rare beef) and gan (tendon), trying every combination before settling into a favorite.

At Pho So 1, he ordered a large bowl ($6.99; $6.15 for a small bowl) with rare beef and extra tendon. He dressed his pho with bean sprouts and five slices of jalapeno pepper which he made sure to count before dropping them into the broth. After the broth had been sufficiently infused, he removed the jalapenos until each slice had been accounted for.

Some garnish their pho so that it’s spicy. I like the broth unadulterated. Some are heavy-handed with bean sprouts. I prefer a light touch only because a large amount tends to speed the cooling of the soup.

Prelutsky’s treatment is fairly unique. He requested extra slices of lime so that he could concoct a sauce of lime juice, Sriracha, and hoisin.

“I used to use vinegar but they stopped putting it out on the table,” Prelutsky said. “I guess the vinegar attracted tiny flies…I probably ate some without meaning to."

Which might serve for the basis of a good poem. After reading from his book Rolling Harvey Down the Hill to a class of second-graders, some of them ate worms, following the example set by a protagonist of one of his poems.

I first met Prelutsky (to interview him for a profile) shortly after he was named Children’s Poet Laureate by the Poetry Foundation, publishers of Poetry magazine. The title carried a two-year term; two other poets have since received the honor. Prelutsky remains one of the most prolific and durable poets in the country, having produced more than 40 collections of children’s poems for an audience that spans at least two generations.

He is always at work on new poetry and regularly reads it, sometimes set to music, as it was last month in Illinois when he was accompanied by the DuPage Symphony Orchestra playing Camille Saint-Saens’ “Carnival of the Animals.”

In conversation, he is rarely at a loss for words, moving from one tangent to the next until he himself has forgotten where the story was heading. This happened several times during the course of lunch.

“… so what were we talking about again?” he would pause and ask.

He recently suffered from a case of diverticulitis, an inflammation of the intestinal wall, and had to have a foot of his colon removed. He had to swear off some of his favorite foods for a while but can now again eat anything he wants.

“If I was a cat, I’d be dead,” he said. “I’ve had my nine lives.”

He nearly died in a house fire when he was a baby. He almost drowned twice, was nearly shot to death during a random encounter (the gun failed to fire), and survived a car accident that sent his VW bus down a 200-foot ravine (luckily a passer-by who happened to be a nurse pulled up minutes later).


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Comments:

Posted Tue, Jun 7, 7:25 a.m. Inappropriate

Has Mr. Prelutsky visited all of the local bagel joints and found any as good as the ones from his hometown neighborhood?

animalal

Posted Tue, Jun 7, 1:33 p.m. Inappropriate

In other words, Mr. Prelutsky does not fetishize food. I had no idea there were still such people in Seattle...

orino

Posted Tue, Jun 7, 8:53 p.m. Inappropriate

I used to go to Pho So 1 fairly regularly when they first opened, alternating with Pho Bac on the corner of Rainier, Boren and Jackson and also sometimes visiting Huong Binh for some Hue food instead of pho.

About 6 months ago, my 10-year old niece and I stopped in and the pho was terrible! She even pointed that out. My choice as always is everything except the meatballs but the soup was pure dishwater. I, too, am a fan of tendon and a good helping of tripe always helps. They used to be as good as Pho Bac but certainly not during that visit. I would expect widely varying soup quality in a Than Brothers or Pho Hoa but not in a supposedly "good" pho shop. Did they change hands or massively improve recently after my visit?

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