Thirteen keepers, scattered around Seattle

Our resident curmudgeon celebrates a baker's dozen of icons Seattle couldn't live without.

Century 21, Seattle 1962

University of Washington

Century 21, Seattle 1962

A terra cotta walrus at the Arctic Club

Wikimedia Commons

A terra cotta walrus at the Arctic Club

Five months ago I stirred up some debate writing about icons we could do without, local monuments I’d like to Photoshop out of the picture if I were Seattle’s Stalin. I came down against Fremont’s Troll and Lenin statues, and the Darth Vader–ish Columbia Tower. I said the Pioneer Square totem pole was a dubious symbol, and I kicked Hammering Man in the shins.

Fremont Universe, a neighborhood blog, predicted that I would not “be elected King Faerie of the Solstice Parade anytime soon.” Seattle Times editorial writer Bruce Ramsey said I went too far in calling the Troll “ugly and charmless": “It’s eating a Volkswagen! A real Volkswagen. How can you not like that?” Bruce, it’s good to know where you stand in the war on cars!

Some readers fought back by challenging me to make a list of public icons I like. So, running the risk of jeopardizing my curmudgeonly status with a warm and fuzzy column, I offer a partial list of public art, artifacts, and landmarks that I really like.

Mount Rainier: The volcanic goddess who must be respected — and feared. Her beauty, moods, and menace define our days. We have a reputation for monotonously gray weather, but there’s always a drama played out with the mountain as backdrop. Can you see her? Is she hiding? What’s that saucer-like cloud on her top? Can you see her glaciers glinting in the sun? Is she gonna blow? You never see the same mountain twice.

The Space Needle: I won’t be “King Faerie” in Fremont, but as the Space Needle’s first writer in residence (with a desk on the Observation Deck), all I can say is, “So what?” I’ve got a great perch, and the views never get old. The Needle hosts roughly a million visitors per year; the Seattle they see from the Needle is the ultimate living postcard.

Olympic Sculpture Park: One of the best additions to Seattle in decades. Two sculptures I find intensely provocative: Roxy Paine’s steel tree (titled Split) and Mark Dion’s Neukom Vivarium. Both urbanize nature in a way that is infuriating, thought-provoking, and blessedly non-whimsical. We have enough Pike Place pigs.

Pacific Science Center: People loved Minoru Yamasaki’s brilliant secular temple of science when it debuted as the U.S. Science Pavilion at the 1962 World’s Fair. They still do. Some said that with its white stone, fountains, and pools, it was a modern Xanadu. Many modern architects sniffed, however. Not spare or cold enough, the pavilion was dismissed by I.M. Pei as “artistic caprice.” Whatever it is, it’s inspiring. The Gothic “space arches” are stunning still.

Paul Horiuchi Mural at Seattle Center’s Mural Amphitheatre: A tile collage by a Northwest artist who brilliantly blended East and West. It’s an abstract meant to live outdoors.

Kubota Garden: Like a living Horiuchi that changes with the seasons.

Black Sun by Isamu Noguchi, Volunteer Park: Very 2001: A Space Odyssey, it’s a sculpture that seems to emit a hum. This climbable doughnut is art, but art that also frames a classic city view.

The statues of Chief Seattle (downtown), William Henry Seward (Volunteer Park), Leif Erikson (Shilshole Bay), and the James J. Hill bust at the University of Washington: Seattle doesn’t have many old-school statues of great people, but these sum up our eclectic past: an Indian, a statesman, an explorer, and a railroad baron. Add a Seafair sailor and call it the Frontier Village People!

Rem Koolhaas Central Branch Library, downtown: Great as a sculpture. I have my complaints about it as a library (slow elevators, poor signage), but it’s a visual marvel. How many other libraries are tourist attractions?

The P-I globe: Long may it turn. Ditto for the Elephant Car Wash sign.

Walrus heads on the Arctic Building: Seattle was built too late to have many gargoyles, but these tusked faces are fabulous and could only have appeared in a town that made its rep was as the “Gateway to Alaska.”

Seattle Waterfall Garden, Pioneer Square: Odd, hidden; it reminds me of urban shrines in Japanese cities that feature flowing water, a touch of nature in megalopolis. It’s a reminder that a freshwater spring was one of the reasons Seattle started here.

Ramps to nowhere in the Arboretum: A reminder that saying “no” is often a good idea; that technology, roads and “progress” have limits.

This story first appeared in the August issue of Seattle Magazine, where the author is a regular columnist.


About the Author

Knute Berger is Mossback, Crosscut's chief Northwest native. He also writes the monthly Grey Matters column for Seattle magazine and is a weekly Friday guest on Weekday on KUOW-FM (94.9). His newest book is Pugetopolis: A Mossback Takes On Growth Addicts, Weather Wimps, and the Myth of Seattle Nice, published by Sasquatch Books. In 2011, he was named Writer-in-Residence at the Space Needle and is author of Space Needle, The Spirit of Seattle (2012), the official 50th anniversary history of the tower. You can e-mail him at mossback@crosscut.com.

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Comments:

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 7:19 a.m. Inappropriate

I think you can safely add the Alaskan Way Viaduct to this list. The reasons, that are obvious to most people, will become immediately clear for everyone when it's gone.

jmrolls

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 8:07 a.m. Inappropriate

The library is the one of the most over-rated, over-hyped, least functional buildings I have ever experienced. The New York cheerleaders set a glowing trend of approval upon its opening in 2003; the locals fell for it and now have learned to avoid the Taj Mahal of wasted space.

animalal

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 8:27 a.m. Inappropriate

Knute, put the curmudgeon coat back on. More fun than warm and fuzzy.

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 8:33 a.m. Inappropriate

Animalal goes a bit far - and insults locals who "fell for it" (guess we're a bunch of yokels). It's not the perfect building for reasons more elegantly posted by Knute, but I enjoy working and thinking in the grand spaces - off 5th and the Reading Room.

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 8:48 a.m. Inappropriate

I've always liked the Smith Tower and both the Quad and Suzallo Library at UW, as well as Saint Mark's Cathedral.

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 12:20 p.m. Inappropriate

Certainly the PI globe and Elephant Car Wash sign, but I'd add two more pieces of monumental neon, one gone and one extant. First, the "R" atop the Rainier Brewery, sadly gone (and the "Green T" is no substitute). It always told you you had arrived in Seattle for folks coming up from the south - even if it was backwards. And the huge animated Bardahl sign which tells you, similarly, you've arrived in Ballard.

dbreneman

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 2:45 p.m. Inappropriate

Great list, though I'm still getting used to the Central Library. The Arboretum ramps to nowhere especially. Too bad they'll be removed as part of the reconstruction of 520.

I'd also add Pacific Medical Center.

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 3:19 p.m. Inappropriate

One of the most disappointing attempts to replace an unforgettable Seattle icon is the pathetic neon "Wallingford" sign atop the QFC on North 45th. The sign's noble predecessor was the name of the supermarket beneath, the Food Giant. The exquisite secret beauty was the in the extreme, but somehow subtle spacing between the letters that stretched the two words far beyond signage or corporate identity--- F O O D G I A N T. Truly a giant of food and a cornucopia of urban well-being. The thoughtless compressed marker offered as a compromise by QFC and its corporate parent is merely embarrassing; a hokey chamber-of-commerce compromise solution that does no favor either to its eponymous neighborhood or the plucky, independent enterprise that preceded it.

gabowker

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 3:26 p.m. Inappropriate

Curiously, Crosscut's electronic copy editor also compressed the words FOOD GIANT. I'm not sure what this says about my observation, the nature of icons, current electronic technology, or semiotics. I'll give it another shot: F (SPACE) 0 (SPACE) O (SPACE) D (LONGER SPACE) G (SPACE) I (SPACE) A (SPACE) N (SPACE) T.

gabowker

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 5:54 p.m. Inappropriate

Good list, but add another vote contra library, not without virtues, but overall another glass box. Meh. Count me in with the Smith Tower instead. The sculpture garden doesn't have anything to compare with Moore's Vertebrae or Newman's Broken Obelisk, but there's time to remedy that. One more reason to dislike the New 520, as the Ramps to Nowhere join the Twin Teepees and possibly the Hat and Boots service station in oblivion. @dbreneman is right, even if the Rainier R yet lives in retirement at MOHI, but Ivar's neon 'sign' over the Acre's of Clams is gone and only remembered by a few of us codgers. Or maybe without the Kalakala around it lost it's magic.
And if Knute really was feeling his curmudgeon full on, he'd dis Waiting for the Interurban along with streetcars old and new. Maybe he's mellowing.

NickBob

Posted Mon, Sep 12, 7:45 p.m. Inappropriate

Somewhere there must be an 'Older Curmudgeon' who's grumbling - "The Old Curmudgeon'? Whaa?? He used to do good stuff... before he SOLD OUT!"

Personaly, I think that it will be a while before the Library or the Sculpture Garden actulaly prove their worth. But they're not lost causes.

My two cents on the icon thang:

1.) Best lost Icon from the nearly forgotten past: Calder's "Big Crinkly".

2.) Best (and most underappreciated) enduring Seattle sculpture Icon): "Changing Form" by Doris Chase (in Kerry Park).

But that's just me.

Posted Tue, Sep 13, 9:50 p.m. Inappropriate

My 95-year-old aunt, who lived in Fremont from 1954 to 1980, still hankers for the burgers from Dick's Drive In on 45th. A century from now, it's possible that only the very wealthy will be able to afford to eat beef because population will outstrip food supply and raising animals to consume will be extremely costly. When that time comes, I hope Seattlelites can see Dick's neon sign and front counter in toto in a cavernous museum hall.

Posted Thu, Sep 15, 1:06 a.m. Inappropriate

At risk of tarring and feathering (or maybe mossing?) I will agree with most of the list, walrus gargoyles especially, but not Rainier. It's a vast shapeless heap of rubble. Sure, it's big, but so what? Send it to Texas. Give me the symmetry of Glacier Peak, the classic flattop of Baker, the gracefulness of Hood and some of the other Oregon volcanoes, but spare me the overgrown, amorphous, bloated bulkiness of Rainier and its ugly little sister Adams.

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