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Maria Hines opens her Fremont tribute to Sicily: Agrodolce

Seattle's favorite Iron Chef opens her third restaurant. This time with pasta.
Maria Hines.

Maria Hines. Ronald Holden

The exterior of Agrodolce, Maria Hines' third restaurant, in the old 35th Street Bistro space.

The exterior of Agrodolce, Maria Hines' third restaurant, in the old 35th Street Bistro space. Ronald Holden

Maria Hines, who turned 40 this year, has weathered the storm of early success and is stepping confidently into the front ranks of Seattle chefs. On Friday the Ohio native opens her third restaurant, joining an elite group of local women (Kathy Casey, Lisa Dupar, Renée Erickson, Tamara Murphy, among others) who have become restaurant entrepreneurs to reckon with.

After a stint at the W's restaurant, Earth & Ocean (2003), Hines opened Tilth (2005), Golden Beetle (2010), and, this week, Agrodolce. Along the way, a Food & Wine "Best New Chef" award, a James Beard "Best Chef Pacific Northwest" award, and, on Iron Chef, a convincing win over Chef Masahura Morimoto.

Tilth's initial claim to fame was its certification as organic (first restaurant ever!), followed by its selection, in the New York Times as one of the ten best new restaurants of the year. Moving from Wallingford to Ballard, Hines opened Golden Beetle as a tribute to the foods of the eastern Mediterranean; she also surfed the crest of the craft cocktail wave with house-made bitters, tinctures, sodas, garnishes and infusions. That was two years ago. Restless, unwilling to settle, Hines needed a venue for a third venture.

She found it in Fremont at the hippie hangout fondly remembered as Still Life, with an indoor tree. Renamed 35th Street Bistro, the space went through several owners, the most recent having upgraded the dining room decor as well as the kitchen. With 16 gas burners, a grill, a production island and a built-in fryer, it's a chef's dream, a true turnkey restaurant. She will run it with a staff of seven, headed by her longtime chef de cuisine Jason Brzozowy .

And what better dream than the western world's simplest, yet most misunderstood cuisine, from the island in the heart of Mediterranean that Goethe called "the key to Italy": Sicily.

For Sicily, geography has always been destiny. The rocky isle, a land mass the size of Vermont, rises from the Mediterranean like a giant pebble kicked by the toe of Italy. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and North Africans viewed it as a strategic military and cultural outpost. Ringed by rich waters and covered with dense forests, amazingly fertile hillsides and ancient vineyards, Sicily is both a crucible of original recipes and a melting pot of fragrant and exotic culinary traditions.

Hines actually wrote the menu for Agrodolce (literally “sour-sweet”) before she had ever visited Sicily. When she finally got there, early this fall, courtesy of the U.S. State Department (she's a U.S. Culinary Ambassador), she went straight to the Vucceria market in Palermo and bought pani con miusa: a spleen sandwich. "This is Italy's soul food," she said.

Trouble is, many of Sicily's iconic dishes require the unique ingredients of place. This precise sort of wild mountain fennel, that precise sardine. Sheep's milk for ricotta? Unobtainable in Washington state; ovine herds here are milked for cheese, and there's no surplus.

Undeterred, Hines cast a wider net and eventually found a supplier in New York who imports sheep's milk. Hines will bring in whole sardines packed in water for bucatini con le sarde, and will make the pasta in-house. Other inspirations include housemade burrata, arancini (rice balls stuffed with meat and cheese), lamb meatballs and a housemade limoncello sorbetto.

It makes me a bit nervous, though, that Hines expressed admiration for one of the worst cookbooks I've had the duty to evaluate in the past year, Georgio Locatelli's Made In Sicily. Locatelli's recipe, inexplicably, calls for tinned anchovies. Mamma mia!

Hines communicates with her diners in what might be described as "Seattle menuspeak shorthand." Let's take, for example, the famous pasta con le sarde. Here's an exact transcription from the menu: "bucatini | pine nut, sardine, fennel, golden raisin."


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Comments:

Posted Wed, Dec 19, 11:15 a.m. Inappropriate

Congrats to Maria. One cavil re the writer's opinion on menu descriptions: I welcome a spare listing of ingredients. I can't count the times I've scoffed at unimaginative but prolix menu descriptions containing phrases such as "fresh garden vegetables." Well, I hope so! What would the opposite be? "Rotten farm vegetables picked from the culls at the warehouse at the end of the day?" Or "farm fresh eggs." What's the opposite of that? "Salmonella bombs bought from a factory farm a month ago?" I am perfectly capable of asking for a description of the preparation if the list of ingredients doesn't tell me enough.

mspat

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